Why Anna Wintour is also on her podium – Fashion

The wave of black lives in the United States resonates in the lofty sectors of fashion and lifestyle journalism. Even Anna Wintour was almost knocked off her podium last week.

In the United States, last week was a hotly contested lifestyle magazine. They are an easy target: since the digital revolution, they have lost both readers and advertisers, and so they are much less powerful than they used to be.

In the United States, last week was a hotly contested lifestyle magazine. They are an easy target: since the digital revolution, they have lost both readers and advertisers, and so they are much less powerful than they used to be. However, they still paint predominantly white, especially at board level, and that their editors sometimes have little sympathy for what is happening outside their privileged world. The world of stylists, interns and press attachés in New York, London and Paris is disproportionately populated by people who often don’t really have to work to make ends meet. They regularly encounter authentic princesses. At Vogue, the German Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis has been a regular for many years. Five years ago, the princess posted a photo on Instagram of a homeless woman on a sidewalk with a copy of Vogue in her hands. “Paris is full of surprises” added. Grace Coddington, Vogue’s chief stylist for decades, posed last year with her collection of racist ceramics, with heads in the form of black girls. The ancien régime has done a lot of work in the last few days, and that has not been without consequences. At Bon Appétit, the food magazine of Vogue publisher Condé Nast, editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport left. A single photo on Instagram – from 2013 – was the one that made the difference. The editor-in-chief seemed to make fun of Latinos. There was more in it. Black employees of Bon Appétit later testified that they were considered second-class at the magazine. Unlike their white counterparts, they weren’t paid to show up for cooking shows on the magazine’s popular YouTube channel. The website Business Insider reported that Rapoport instructed his highly educated black assistant to clean his golf clubs. Elle sends Stephen Gan, elle’s creative director, away after a little too many complaints about racist behavior. Gan, one of the founders of V, a respected fashion magazine, is a superstar in the industry. Leah Mandrine, the influencer who celebrated a huge digital success with The Man Repeller, is stepping aside in her own company. And on the popular website Refinery 29, editor-in-chief Christene Barberich left the company after complaints from former black employees. There was also some good news. Harper’s Bazaar first received a black editor-in-chief, stylist Samira Nasr, last week. “As the daughter of a father from Lebanon and a mother from Trinidad,” she said, “my worldview is expansive and my lens is colored. I think it is important to start a new chapter of Bazaar by sheding a light on … all the inspiring voices of our time.” Elle, another magazine from the hearst publishing house, has been run since 2017 by Nina Garcia, who has Colombian roots. Competitor Condé Nast, the main American publisher of lifestyle magazines, performed less well. Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue for 32 years, but also artistic director and recently global content advisor to the entire group, has received the most criticism in recent weeks. She’s been in the firing line before. Last month, the autobiography of Andre Leon Talley, her former right-hand man, was published, and for years a rare black appearance on the catwalks. Until, he writes, Anna Wintour dropped him. “She is incapable of human kindness,” he wrote. In a recent radio interview, Leon Talley said wintour is a typical product of white privilege. “One thing I want to say: Dame Anna Wintour is a colonial Dowt.” “The racism at Condé Nast and Vogue has been crippling,” former employee Shelby Ivey Christie said on Twitter.In The New York Times published several in-depth articles about Wintour and Condé Nast in recent months. The Instagram account Diet Prada, which usually pokes fun at the public killing of figures from the fashion world, published a series of vile testimonies from former employees and an overview of Vogue’s biggest faux pas. A post titled Why Won’t She Leave? 2138 comments, mostly from the genre ‘Bye, Girl’ or ‘NEXT!’ Wintour met a kind of mea culpa. On June 5, she wrote in a letter to her editor that “as a black employee of Vogue, it cannot be easy” and that the magazine “has found too few ways to give space to black editors, writers, photographers, designers, and other creators.” We also made mistakes, published images or stories that were hurt or intolerant. I take responsibility for these mistakes.” But there is a lot of excitement that Edward Enninful, the black, popular editor-in-chief of British Vogue, would soon be screened for New York. Condé Nast recently merged his American leg with the international division. The travel magazines Condé Nast Traveler and Condé Nast Traveller are now produced by a team in London. Criticism of Vogue and Wintour is legitimate, but at the same time it is not the devil itself. Vogue has become much more inclusive in recent years. In her role as creative director of Condé Nast, Wintour put colored editors at the helm of Teen Vogue (successively Elaine Welteroth and Lindsay Peoples Wagner) and Vanity Fair (Radhika Jones, who unwrapped her first cover for the monthly magazine with black actress Lena Waithe in March 2018 and has since placed fifteen other people of color on the cover). Both magazines take a fairly radical course by American standards. Condé Nast also launched it, a progressive LGBT website.Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988, is considered the last true celebrity editor, a true survivor. She is also 70. However, younger than the US president and his opponent for the upcoming election. But at the same time old enough to step aside (her predecessor as artistic director, the legendary Alexander Liberman, persisted until the end of the eighties). Wintour staggers on her pedestal. But it is unlikely to be demolished immediately. The situation is even worse in Belgium than in the United States. The editors of lifestyle magazines are dazzlingly white, with rare exceptions such as Natalie Helsen at Sabato and Marie Guerin, the editor-in-chief of the French-speaking Elle.Er big differences to the American market. The microcosm of lifestyle media is much smaller in Belgium (there are no personal assistants at first, a job that sometimes helps to get into fashion – sometimes you only clean golf clubs). And when it comes to print journalism, language often remains an obstacle. For example, if you grow up in a foreign-speaking family, you almost always go with a disadvantage. This is not an excuse – not again because for many flemish Dutch people of colour, Dutch is, of course, only the mother tongue – but perhaps a partial explanation. “Weekend can also be better if it wants to reflect society,” says Ruth Goossens, editor-in-chief of Knack Weekend and Le Vif Weekend. “We bring people of different skin tones into our reports, but we do not play an active role in the fight against racism. For example, we do not pay enough attention to the problems of non-whites. We can focus on this, but real changes begin with the composition of our editorial staff. Here we must actively work for more diversity, because spontaneously there are hardly any employees or interns with tanning. With more inclusivity in the newsroom, we can do much more in the fight against racism in the lifestyle sector.”