Nowadays, we’re pleased to present you to the following new face within our developing cast of characters here on HSS. I met David Petr 3 decades back. He had been included from early design stages of the iteration of this HSS website you visit today. Since then, he’s become the Visual Design and Marketing Director with Your buddies by Michael Andrews Bespoke. We hope you like David’s style as well as what he has to express. Please inquire him! -BTS
Originating from the background in visual design, business growth, and creative management, I’ve consistently needed a tediously practical way of coming to the universe. Working in men’s fashion, especially the luxury world of bespoke clothing, all these OCD tendencies experienced a direct influence on the styling and construction of my attire. 1 question I regularly receive about my game jackets and matches is,”Why is you opt to opt for only a single button on your coat.” And, just like my method of art and work, the answer is simplistically complex.
I select the one-button coat for several reasons. In many ways, it has really a snow ball effect predicated in my physique and personal preferences. I’ve always had an issue with the lanky lapel trend that became”a thing” and continues to linger to this day. It’s 1 thing if you should be a very slender guy having a shoulder dimension. But when you’re 6’2″ and over 200 lbs, a thin lapel could cause you to seem larger in an not too flattering way. It’s a game of proportions.
An ideal balance is dead centre between your roster of the lapel and the shoulder, but moving marginally wider will help produce a thinning effect as the lapel travels the garment down.
Once you extend the lapel, it begins to make a splash on the visual element of the button stance. Again, a lot of this really is personal preference, but once the lapel gets wider, then the button posture should really go lower — particularly if you are a taller guy. A decrease button posture results in both buttons on a two-button coat shifting . Because the buttons end up closer together, I choose to remove underneath button altogether.
The 2nd reason I’ve for only employing a 1 button jacket configuration is an immediate response to the quality of the fabric. Once you enter the world of luxury suiting — a lawsuit that’s really bespoke and not off the rack — the cloths used become these beautiful works of art, each stitched having a master level of precise care. Mills such as Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, and several others spend countless hours working in their collections each year. I hate to interrupt the stream of the fabric with a button which, let’s face it, should never be fastened in the first place.
The end result is coat perfectly crafted for the build and individual style. It is vital that you know how your physical stature can affect the manner of your attire. For every person and contour, there is an ideal solution waiting to be detected.
Chime in: Which are the thoughts on the one-button jacket?
Thanks for reading.